Showing posts with label Gardening. Show all posts
Showing posts with label Gardening. Show all posts
Tuesday, April 13, 2010
Save the Date!
It’s time for a party! A garden party, that is!
I love gardening and seeing other people’s gardens, so now’s your time to show off your botanical beauties!
Here’s how it works. May 17th, I’m going to post a MckLinky for you to add your Garden Party post. I'll even have a button for you to put in your sidebar!
I understand we are all live in different climates so if you don’t have veggies or flowers up yet, you can show off your rows of seeds, freshly pruned hedges, or even what’s in the green house.
What, you don’t garden? That’s ok. You can show off your flowerpots, houseplants, and heck even your Zen garden (just be sure you raked it well!) You might want to include any issues you are having, trade secrets, or learning experiences you may have. A reader might be able to lend a hand or learn something from you.
After you’ve posted your link, you can tour other blogs to see what they are up to. You might be able to learn a thing or two or find some inspiration! You get to tour gardens for a whole week! That’s seven days of horticulture without the worry of bees, pollen, snakes, and the fear that you might be told to pull a few weeds!
Guess what else is happening! In September, we are going to have Round 2! You can’t forget about all the lovely mums and crop harvest! I expect to hear if your corn only grew 2 inches, the wisteria swallowed your house whole, or if you are drowning in tomatoes. You can even share your plans for next year!
So mark your calendar and grab your straw hats; I’ll provide the sweet tea and lemonade!
Let's some see some gardens!
Saturday, February 13, 2010
Composting and Gardening, part 3
I live in what's known as "Middle Tennessee." I also live in the land of clay rather than soil. Starting a new garden is a big of a challenge, but it can be done... and this is how I did it!
The first thing you need to do is get a soil ph test. If you have soil that is too acidic or alkaline, your plants aren't going to grow to their fullest potential. You can usually get soil sample kits from your county extension office. They will also tell you what you should do to change the ph to a more optimum level for what you intend to plant. There are also so pretty cool soil testing gizmos on the market. I own one, but I'm not sure how much I trust it.
There are a few ingredients you will need:
Cardboard or newspapers
A gardening rake
Top Soil
Peat Moss
Compost
A tiller
Once you know where your garden will be placed, you will most likely need to kill off the grass. This is easily accomplished by laying down a layer of cardboard or newspapers. Wetting the covering will help keep them from flying away in the wind. A few bricks can be helpful, too. If you lay down your covering on Monday, you will probably be ready to compose your garden by the weekend. You don't need to kill all the grass, but every bit helps.
I should also remind you to make sure there are no water or power lines in your garden space. This could cause some serious issues.
Fast forward a few days and you are ready to mix up your ingredients.
The easiest way to get started is to till up the existing soil. Remove any rocks, or if you live in my old house- bricks and other construction waste. If you hit any roots, those can be easily removed with a small saw.
There are two ways you can go about this next step. You can mix your top soil and peat moss together in a large container or make lasagna. Peat moss usually comes in a large bail but breaks up in a fine dust similar to saw dust. It's hard to control and this is why I like to mix it into the top soil. If you decide to go lasagna style, it helps to wet down the peat a bit after to put it on the ground just to give it a bit of control.
I don't have a set ratio of top soil to peat, but I suppose you could do 25% peat and 75% topsoil. The gardening rake comes in super handy with making sure the each layer or your mix is spread out evenly over your plot. I like to use enough mix to make a good inch or so layer on top of your tilled earth.
Till 'er up!
The type of garden you are constructing will dictate how far you go. Just general run of the mill garden or flower bed will benefit from a good dosage of compost. If you are doing a woodland/shade garden, you'll want to till in a healthy layer of compost and dried leaves. A garden full of lavender (my favorite!) will require sand mixed in.
I like to till, rake out any clumps and even everything out, then till again. I might repeat this a few times just to make sure everything is well mixed.
You are free to plant right away, but I found it to be a bit more effective to give everything a large gulp of water and plant the next day. If you get the ground too soggy, you might need to wait an extra day or so to let it drain out.
One final note: Mulch is your friend! It took me a whole year to learn this lesson. Keep in mind that different types of mulch might change your soil ph. You aren't limited to just wood chips- straw is a great cover- so don't be afraid to cover everything up. This will save you a ton of water and backache!
Happy Gardening!
The first thing you need to do is get a soil ph test. If you have soil that is too acidic or alkaline, your plants aren't going to grow to their fullest potential. You can usually get soil sample kits from your county extension office. They will also tell you what you should do to change the ph to a more optimum level for what you intend to plant. There are also so pretty cool soil testing gizmos on the market. I own one, but I'm not sure how much I trust it.
There are a few ingredients you will need:
Cardboard or newspapers
A gardening rake
Top Soil
Peat Moss
Compost
A tiller
Once you know where your garden will be placed, you will most likely need to kill off the grass. This is easily accomplished by laying down a layer of cardboard or newspapers. Wetting the covering will help keep them from flying away in the wind. A few bricks can be helpful, too. If you lay down your covering on Monday, you will probably be ready to compose your garden by the weekend. You don't need to kill all the grass, but every bit helps.
I should also remind you to make sure there are no water or power lines in your garden space. This could cause some serious issues.
Fast forward a few days and you are ready to mix up your ingredients.
The easiest way to get started is to till up the existing soil. Remove any rocks, or if you live in my old house- bricks and other construction waste. If you hit any roots, those can be easily removed with a small saw.
There are two ways you can go about this next step. You can mix your top soil and peat moss together in a large container or make lasagna. Peat moss usually comes in a large bail but breaks up in a fine dust similar to saw dust. It's hard to control and this is why I like to mix it into the top soil. If you decide to go lasagna style, it helps to wet down the peat a bit after to put it on the ground just to give it a bit of control.
I don't have a set ratio of top soil to peat, but I suppose you could do 25% peat and 75% topsoil. The gardening rake comes in super handy with making sure the each layer or your mix is spread out evenly over your plot. I like to use enough mix to make a good inch or so layer on top of your tilled earth.
Till 'er up!
The type of garden you are constructing will dictate how far you go. Just general run of the mill garden or flower bed will benefit from a good dosage of compost. If you are doing a woodland/shade garden, you'll want to till in a healthy layer of compost and dried leaves. A garden full of lavender (my favorite!) will require sand mixed in.
I like to till, rake out any clumps and even everything out, then till again. I might repeat this a few times just to make sure everything is well mixed.
You are free to plant right away, but I found it to be a bit more effective to give everything a large gulp of water and plant the next day. If you get the ground too soggy, you might need to wait an extra day or so to let it drain out.
One final note: Mulch is your friend! It took me a whole year to learn this lesson. Keep in mind that different types of mulch might change your soil ph. You aren't limited to just wood chips- straw is a great cover- so don't be afraid to cover everything up. This will save you a ton of water and backache!
Happy Gardening!
Friday, February 12, 2010
Composting and Gardening, part 2
As promised, here is my "two bin" composting process and how to harvest it.
When my very first bin filled up, I was uncertain as to what I should do next. I knew three things: it needed to "cook" a bit longer before I could use it, there wasn't any room to add anything new, and I didn't want to stop. I decided to start a second bin. They were labeled Bin A and Bin B.
Year 1- Start A and fill as much as you can in one year
Year 2- Start B and add your materials. Don't add to A. It's cooking. Just stir it up once a week or so.
Year 3- Harvest A and refill with left over uncomposted materials. Don't add to B, but stir once a week.
Lather. Rinse. Repeat.
This process worked really well for the 4 years I had my compost bins running. You could probably even have a 3rd brewing and then you'd have even better compost!
Harvesting is super simple. You can Google and find all kinds of sifting screens, but I'm lazy and my way works well for me.
Most of my compost went to starting new flower beds so I just dumped the bin out where I wanted the compost, shoveled buckets full to use in other locations, and set to work tilling it in! If there was a random apple core or pineapple top, I tossed it back into the bin. I made sure to leave a few inches of compost in the bin as a starter so I didn't have to completely start from scratch. Don't worry about random nut shells or anything else small. They will continue to cook down in the garden.
At the end of the growing season, you can empty the flower pots right back into bin and the cycle will continue. I like to reuse my potting soil so I have a bin that the soil goes into while the dead plants and roots go into the compost. When I go to fill flower pots again, I use roughly 50/50 or 25% compost and 75% soil- depends on the type of plant and what kind of soil they like.
Tomorrow- amending Middle Tennessee's crappy soil!
When my very first bin filled up, I was uncertain as to what I should do next. I knew three things: it needed to "cook" a bit longer before I could use it, there wasn't any room to add anything new, and I didn't want to stop. I decided to start a second bin. They were labeled Bin A and Bin B.
Year 1- Start A and fill as much as you can in one year
Year 2- Start B and add your materials. Don't add to A. It's cooking. Just stir it up once a week or so.
Year 3- Harvest A and refill with left over uncomposted materials. Don't add to B, but stir once a week.
Lather. Rinse. Repeat.
This process worked really well for the 4 years I had my compost bins running. You could probably even have a 3rd brewing and then you'd have even better compost!
Harvesting is super simple. You can Google and find all kinds of sifting screens, but I'm lazy and my way works well for me.
Most of my compost went to starting new flower beds so I just dumped the bin out where I wanted the compost, shoveled buckets full to use in other locations, and set to work tilling it in! If there was a random apple core or pineapple top, I tossed it back into the bin. I made sure to leave a few inches of compost in the bin as a starter so I didn't have to completely start from scratch. Don't worry about random nut shells or anything else small. They will continue to cook down in the garden.
At the end of the growing season, you can empty the flower pots right back into bin and the cycle will continue. I like to reuse my potting soil so I have a bin that the soil goes into while the dead plants and roots go into the compost. When I go to fill flower pots again, I use roughly 50/50 or 25% compost and 75% soil- depends on the type of plant and what kind of soil they like.
Tomorrow- amending Middle Tennessee's crappy soil!
Thursday, February 11, 2010
Composting and Gardening, part 1
I just posted about starting a new compost bin. I was asked a few questions about how it's done so here's a post all about composting my way. This will be a series of a few posts for fear that I might write an epic tale!
There are two very important aspects of composting: greens and browns, and drainage. If you don't have these two ( I guess 3) things, your compost isn't going to work out so well.
Greens are things like veggie scraps. Browns are paper, leaves, grass, etc. You want to have a good mix of both in order for your compost to be the most beneficial.
Here is how you start a small bin:
You want a very, very big plastic bin. I use the biggest rubbermaid storage bin with lid that I can find. Drill plenty of holes in the bottom and around the sides. You can do some in the lid too if you want. You'll want your compost to have optimum drainage so I rest my bins on top of bricks or cinderblocks. I haven't quite found a way to retrieve the "tea" which also makes great fertilizer, but one day I'll find a way.
There are two ways to start filling. You can either aquire some compost (then just add to it) or you can do the layering method. If you are going compelely DIY, start by laying down some newspaper or empty the contents of your paper shredder. Then lay down some greens. Continue layering greens-brown-green-brown. I try to do two layers of each. Replace the lid and Voila! you are composting!
It's best to stir every time you add to it. Once every couple of days at the least. It's a good idea to dig a small hole and bury your additions just in case there are some pesky raccoons around. It will take about a year of adding and stirring. In the warm months, the bin will probably feel hot inside. This is the compost cooking. If at anytime it starts to stink, you've got a problem. Usually it's drainage. The cooking pretty much stops during the winter, but you can still add to it. I didn't know this until recently so it's a new addition to our repetoire.
There are a few things you will want to avoid:
Gourds including the decorative ones you in the fall- the seeds don't seem to die off, thus growing in our veggie garden and choking most of the plants (true story.)
Weeds- It's hard to know if the seeds will die and that's the last thing you want growing in your garden. For this reason, I don't put grass clippings in my bin.
Meat/anything from a meat eating animal- Bad bacterias will grow. Droppings from vegetarian animals like cows, horses, guinea pigs, rabbits, etc are fine and even encouraged.
Ash- It will affect the ph balance.
Synthetic materials- no plastics, lint from the dryer is fine but only if it's natural.
Human waste- refer to Meat/anything from a meat eating animal.
Oil or Grease- it doesn't break down well
A few things that people don't think about that are great additions: egg shells, leaves, wood shavings, urine (seriously... it's great for it!) tea bags, coffee grounds and filters, nut shells, cardboard (tear it up first) and hair.
We shred all of our important documents then compost them just for some added security. I don't know about composting cooked fruits and veggies because I try to finish them off. That is something you might want to look up.
If you are looking for a more uninvolved compost collection, you can do what The Grandfather did when I was a kid. Just pile up grass clippings and leaves. Dig a hole in the pile to add your food scraps then cover it back up. Over the course of 5-10 years you will have some amazing compost.
The pile I grew up with served not only as our fishing bait (worm) collection area, but as an animal burial ground. While it's supposedly against the "rules of composting" The Grandfather informed me that dead chickens, an occasional deceased cat, and one dead calf all composted down just fine in about a year. I wouldn't suggest it, but if the need arises you could always give it a shot.
Tomorrow I'll tell you all about my "double bin" process and how to harvest your compost for usage!
There are two very important aspects of composting: greens and browns, and drainage. If you don't have these two ( I guess 3) things, your compost isn't going to work out so well.
Greens are things like veggie scraps. Browns are paper, leaves, grass, etc. You want to have a good mix of both in order for your compost to be the most beneficial.
Here is how you start a small bin:
You want a very, very big plastic bin. I use the biggest rubbermaid storage bin with lid that I can find. Drill plenty of holes in the bottom and around the sides. You can do some in the lid too if you want. You'll want your compost to have optimum drainage so I rest my bins on top of bricks or cinderblocks. I haven't quite found a way to retrieve the "tea" which also makes great fertilizer, but one day I'll find a way.
There are two ways to start filling. You can either aquire some compost (then just add to it) or you can do the layering method. If you are going compelely DIY, start by laying down some newspaper or empty the contents of your paper shredder. Then lay down some greens. Continue layering greens-brown-green-brown. I try to do two layers of each. Replace the lid and Voila! you are composting!
It's best to stir every time you add to it. Once every couple of days at the least. It's a good idea to dig a small hole and bury your additions just in case there are some pesky raccoons around. It will take about a year of adding and stirring. In the warm months, the bin will probably feel hot inside. This is the compost cooking. If at anytime it starts to stink, you've got a problem. Usually it's drainage. The cooking pretty much stops during the winter, but you can still add to it. I didn't know this until recently so it's a new addition to our repetoire.
There are a few things you will want to avoid:
Gourds including the decorative ones you in the fall- the seeds don't seem to die off, thus growing in our veggie garden and choking most of the plants (true story.)
Weeds- It's hard to know if the seeds will die and that's the last thing you want growing in your garden. For this reason, I don't put grass clippings in my bin.
Meat/anything from a meat eating animal- Bad bacterias will grow. Droppings from vegetarian animals like cows, horses, guinea pigs, rabbits, etc are fine and even encouraged.
Ash- It will affect the ph balance.
Synthetic materials- no plastics, lint from the dryer is fine but only if it's natural.
Human waste- refer to Meat/anything from a meat eating animal.
Oil or Grease- it doesn't break down well
A few things that people don't think about that are great additions: egg shells, leaves, wood shavings, urine (seriously... it's great for it!) tea bags, coffee grounds and filters, nut shells, cardboard (tear it up first) and hair.
We shred all of our important documents then compost them just for some added security. I don't know about composting cooked fruits and veggies because I try to finish them off. That is something you might want to look up.
If you are looking for a more uninvolved compost collection, you can do what The Grandfather did when I was a kid. Just pile up grass clippings and leaves. Dig a hole in the pile to add your food scraps then cover it back up. Over the course of 5-10 years you will have some amazing compost.
The pile I grew up with served not only as our fishing bait (worm) collection area, but as an animal burial ground. While it's supposedly against the "rules of composting" The Grandfather informed me that dead chickens, an occasional deceased cat, and one dead calf all composted down just fine in about a year. I wouldn't suggest it, but if the need arises you could always give it a shot.
Tomorrow I'll tell you all about my "double bin" process and how to harvest your compost for usage!
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